Building an appetite for 2017
Work of art. Variations of salmon on a plate that resembles water.
What a beautiful day it is today, the first of January.
Finally… good riddance, 2016! And welcome, 2017!!
As Dame Helen Mirren so aptly said on the Graham Norton Show: “I think we can all agree that 2016 has been a big pile of s—.”
As if the changes in the political landscape, both here and abroad, were not jolting enough, the country lost Jovito Salonga (March), Ernesto Maceda (September), and Miriam Defensor Santiago (September); the world just lost cultural icon Carrie Fisher and her mom, silver screen musical legend Debbie Reynolds; music lost David Bowie (January), Prince (April), and on Christmas Day, George Michael; and on a personal note, our family had to send off my dad, Ephraim Cuadra Salcedo.
But let’s not lose our appetite over the miserable shockers of 2016 because this 2017, there is much to look forward to.
Chef’s Table
At the top of the First Class list is the Chef’s Table at Brasserie on 3 in Conrad Manila.
A brainchild of Conrad general manager Harald Feurstein and his F&B Team, the Chef’s Table is a seven-course, by reservation only dinner prepared by Conrad’s Executive Chef Thomas Jakobi.
There are four distinct menus to choose from.
The first is Chef’s Pride, showcasing the personal favorite dishes of the German executive chef paired with exquisite wine; second is Smokey Taste, a menu of smokey flavors paired with whisky, including a Glenlivet 25 years; Vegetarian, which is paired with cocktails; and From Farm to Table, where each dish is paired with craft beer.
“We are challenging Chef Thomas to show his talent and culinary skills by presenting something different from the the usual wine dinner,” GM Harald explained.
And show his talent he does. At a Chef’s Table preview, Chef Thomas proved his mastery of taste and textures; showing in various courses how the subject ingredient can have many faces and flavors.
He started with salmon. Salmon already has a reputation as an indulgent fish but the Chef’s Table offers seafood royalty: the red label salmon. (In 1992, Scottish salmon became the first non-French food to receive the red label.) This was presented gravlax-style and slightly smoked but, treating this royal salmon with utter respect, Chef Thomas highlighted its buttery quality even after marinating it for 24 hours. It was then crowned with homemade caviar, adding another dimension of gentle saltiness to the dish.
The corn dish was especially impressive. Usually, corn is served on the side, as a back up singer to a steak or chicken. But Chef Thomas gives it its 15 minutes of fame and you will be surprised at how well it is able to play the lead. The white corn that the chef presents simply grilled is meaty and filling. Then he plays with this ingredient by presenting a corn mousse on the side and a crispy corn chip to add contrast to the textures. It is an excellent display of both respect and admiration for the produce that is his subject.
The piece de resistance for our sneak peek was the steak. Conrad uses no less than MB5 Ribeye, considered the caviar of meats due to its melt-in-your-mouth texture.
Chef Thomas lets this characteristic stand out by cooking it sous vide before it is pan fried. He presents it with a side of tartare, allowing the guest to see the meat in both raw and cooked form. To break the monotony of the meat, he adds morels and tops the meat with a beautifully roasted carrot stick. This is then paired with a Glenlivet 25 to end the dish with a hint of smokiness from the whisky… and to emphasize that you, dear guest, are the living definition of success.
This showcase has me looking forward to making reservations for each of the four tasting menus.
Note, though, that the Chef’s Table is available by reservation only and for a minimum of four, maximum of 12 persons, who will all order the same menu.
New year, new restaurants
Aside from the Chef’s Table at Brasserie on 3, there is a long list of restaurants to look forward to this 2017.
French fine dining lovers have great reason to rejoice: The Raffles Hotel Makati has launched Mireio, a Provencal brasserie, showcasing the talent of Provencal native Chef Nicolas Cegretin.
The restaurant also boasts of a magnificent view of Manila as it is situated on the 9th floor of the hotel; and at the al fresco bar upstairs, the view is even more breathtaking. This restaurant must top your list of must-try’s this 2017.
For French fare minus the fine dining flair, as mentioned in a previous column, Chef Ariel Manuel of Lolo Dad’s, once upon a time THE French restaurant in Manila, has opened his namesake Bistro Manuel in Poblacion, Makati. He may call it a bistro but the food is certainly fine.
Basque French Chef William Mahi, who debuted in Manila at The Tasting Room at the City of Dreams, will open a “fun” dining concept called 210 degree Kitchen + Drinkery (initially named Kommune Kitchen but owners changed name so as not to be confused with coffee place Commune of Ros Juan).
Masseto loyalists will be happy to learn that M Dining, another resto for fine dining lovers, has opened on Pasong Tamo Ext. (Masseto was in Salcedo Village.)
Champetre, the restaurant of highly respected French chef Marc Aubry, is unfortunately saying its final goodbyes but it will resurrect in a couple of months as Sagana. For Aubry fans, do not weep: Champetre will stay open until Jan. 31 so head over and pay your respects before it closes. (Just not on a Sunday; they are open every day except Sunday for lunch through to dinner).
Chinese food lovers will be happy to devour the modern Chinese creations at these two relatively new restaurants: China Blue by Jerome Leung at Conrad, with its breathtaking view of Manila Bay and heart-stopping signature dishes like the pumpkin fried in salted duck egg; Man Ho, with Hong Kong-born Chef Law Wui Wing, at the Marriott; and Xiu Fine Cantonese Dining, replacing Lugang on Connecticut Street in Greenhills.
Meanwhile, Instagram hipsters have been gushing about the good news that Mighty Quinn’s Barbeque of New York fame has been added to the laudably curated restaurants of Megamall. The East Village, New York Times-approved barbecue joint slow-smokes its meat using wood. Foodies have been raving about the Brontosaurus Rib, beef ribs large enough for a family to share.
Hipsters have also been jumping for joy that The Girl + the Bull, a must-eat-at in BF Homes, has found its way to Legaspi Village in Makati.
And just last December, the headline was that the Kastilas behind Rambla and Las Flores have finally opened Tomatito, a “sexy” tapas bar at the ground floor of BGC Corporate Center (11th Avenue corner 30th). The place promises gambas, croquettes, and tiraditos like you’ve never enjoyed these before.
The list goes on—as does life.
The good news is that we survived 2016. Now let’s charge on ahead and have an amazing new year.
Cheers to a beautiful, bountiful, blessed and bilbilicious 2017!
Happy New Year!
Chef’s Table at Brasserie on 3
Conrad Manila, Seaside Boulevard, Mall of Asia Complex, Pasay City. For reservations and inquiries call Conrad 8339999.
The Brasserie on 3 buffet is open to the public and walk ins. The Chef’s Table is by reservation only for a minimum party of 4, maximum of 12 pax.
