Chic dining by the Palace

CLASSICS Adobong balut, kaldereta, salmon sinigang and pancit at Emilia’s —MARGAUX SALCEDO

Tucked away in one of the back streets of the Malacañang compound is a chic restaurant named Emilia’s. It’s on the same row as the Goldenberg Mansion and it is evident that this was also a regal home of yesteryears, now converted to a restaurant.

While the restaurant exudes a 1950s vibe with the retro burgundy seats, a bar with red shelves and a ceiling that reeks of Machuca tiles, it does not feel outdated or ancient. On the contrary, it is very welcoming, with several windows allowing sunlight to kiss your cheeks, if you are lucky enough to get a window seat, and a very high ceiling that makes the place feel very elegant.

The menu is a mix of continental, Spanish and Filipino food. For breakfast, for instance, they include eggs benedict and homemade pancake on the menu. But for the most part, the menu is Filipino-inspired.

For appetizers, try the adobong balut, which succeeds in presenting the shocking delicacy in a manner that would be enticing even to cautious foreigners. This comes in a plate and the rock-hard white part has been softened for easier eating. It does take away the best part of eating balut—for me anyway—which is sipping the extremely delicious broth after cracking an opening into the shell. But the entire dish is delectable.

Other items on the menu also hit the right notes on Filipino flavors. The kaldereta has just a hint of spiciness; the soup of the salmon sinigang is perfectly sour; the lomi is a refined version of our favorite hangover noodles; and the pakbet is just the right amount of salty with its bagoong.

The menu also offers paella, which also delivers in flavor. However, it is best to order this a couple of hours before you dine; otherwise be willing to wait at least 30 minutes before it is served at your table. They have a seafood paella, squid ink paella and mushroom paella. For the vegetarians, they offer the usual Filipino vegetable dishes: chopsuey, pinakbet and kangkong (although this comes with slices of pork).

They also offer chicken wings, chicken burger and cordon bleu but these are not the restaurant’s strengths. Stick to the Filipino menu such as the kare kare, binagoongang baboy and the crispy bagnet kare kare and this should make for a good dinner.

If you are a big group, the restaurant also has rooms for private dining upstairs. I prefer to have lunch here, though, because during the day, you can see the trees from the windows and the light enters beautifully into the room.

They also offer a variety of cocktails and have a stylish bar. If you are not a fan of sweet cocktails, you can ask for straight-up whiskey, vodka or gin tonic.

Overall, it’s a great addition to the restaurants in Manila. At least now there’s an option in the Malacañang area for elegant dining with Filipino comfort food!

Emilia’s House of Filipino Food. 934 General Solano Street, San Miguel, Manila. For inquiries and reservations, contact 0945-144 2224.