How P-Noy brought Filipino cuisine to international renown

Filipino chefs shining on the world stage during the time of P-Noy. —MARGAUX SALCEDO (TAKEN IN MADRID)

As part of the Philippine food community, I would like to express my heartfelt condolences and prayers to the family of former President Benigno Aquino III.

It cannot be denied that it was under P-Noy, as he was fondly called, that Filipino food truly shined on the world stage, thanks to the brilliant marketing moves of his Tourism Secretary, the late Mon Jimenez, not only through the slogan “It’s more fun in the Philippines” but by bringing to the Philippines-Madrid Fusion.

Marketing efforts

It was under this leadership that chosen Filipino chefs were given an opportunity to give talks before and alongside the most applauded chefs and most esteemed members of the global food community.

It was also under this leadership that, suddenly, Philippine products beyond dried mangoes became not only known but sought after by chefs the world over—our vinegar, taba ng talangka, adlai, among others.

Through these marketing efforts, the Philippines was no longer just the land of adobo and mangoes. Once on a day trip to Batangas, I saw Andoni Aduriz of Mugaritz, hailed as one of the best chefs in the world, enamored by the simple bagoong.

P-Noy with the event organizers of Madrid Fusion Philippines. —MARISA NALLANA

At the launch of Madrid Fusion in 2015, President Aquino personally welcomed international chefs like Elena Arzak to Malacañang. This was a first. Imagine a president of a country personally welcoming and feeding the world’s top chefs, personally showcasing to them our lechon, kilawin, bringhe, taba ng talangka, prepared by the Philippines’ most respected chefs.

It was undeniably a most impactful culinary exchange. It was truly well-thought out and executed with both class and fun (the night ended with no less than P-Noy gamely singing, impromptu, with the AMP Big Band).

But it was not just fun and frivolity. This resulted in boosting the credibility of Filipino chefs on the world stage. It increased the value of Philippine local produce. It gave Filipino products, dishes and even chefs name recall internationally.

Whereas Filipino food was once ignored as just brown and maybe even boring, suddenly there was a great curiosity on the Philippines, piqued by the fact that the world’s best chefs traveled all the way here just to taste our food and listen to our chefs.

All of these, thanks to P-Noy. No one can take that credit away from him.

GOOD FOOD TIMES Mary Ann Quioc Tayag of Bale Dutung with the late President Benigno Aquino III during the launch of Madrid Fusion in 2015. —MARGAUX SALCEDO

Global map

The way that he put Filipino food on the global map was unprecedented. Putting Philippine cuisine in the international spotlight was a brilliant marketing move by Jimenez and the efforts of chefs and the entire food community, but without a supportive president, that would never have happened.

More importantly, without a president who understood the importance and impact of the support of the international community, Filipino food would not have the heightened reception and greater appreciation that the world community has for it today.

Throughout the decades, there have been individual efforts for Filipino food to shine: the late Nora Daza opened a well-received restaurant in France and in New York. Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan have consistently been showcasing Filipino food in New York through their restaurants, and various individual entrepreneurs and chefs have personally been joining global food expos. Recently, new generation chefs have also been promoting Filipino food abroad and making us proud, especially in the DC area.

But there is nothing like government stepping in and giving its all out support. And P-Noy gave us that.

It was an exciting time to be part of the food community when P-Noy was president. Those were wonderful times that even we—chefs, food writers, food historians, food entrepreneurs—got to know our own food products, food culture and food history better.

It cannot be denied that there was an unprecedented enthusiasm for food when he was president that has been unmatched to this day.

For us in the food community, that is P-Noy’s legacy. He did not only do well, the food world under the P-Noy admin was nothing short of marvelous.

So thank you, P-Noy, for that.

Rest in peace, Mr. President. We will always be grateful. INQ