Putting together a family heritage cookbook
As we celebrate Mother’s Day, a salu-salo (get-together) kit from XO Heritage Kitchen, a fave of our former editor in chief and legend Letty Jimenez-Magsanoc, which contained classic “heritage” dishes like callos, lengua, paella and galantina, has inspired me to put together a family heritage cookbook.
Come to think of it, all families should try to put together their own heritage cookbook. All the dishes that we love should not die with our ancestors.
I remember having the most delicious puto pandan in Sta. Maria, Bulacan, my mother’s hometown. It was made by one of the neighborhood lolas and she would do everything by hand. However, when I asked her if any of her children or grandchildren knew the recipe, she sadly shared that none of them were interested in continuing the tradition.
This lola has since passed away and, yes, the puto died with her. There are some who still make a similar version but it does not taste the same. It is not as delicious.
Slow food
This is what the Slow Food Movement is all about. Founded by Carlo Petrini in 1986 as a response to the audacious opening of a fast-food restaurant near one of the historic highlights of Rome, it has also taken on the advocacy of preserving local produce, regional cuisine and tradition in general.
Many traditions are borne not out of grand events or at fine dining halls but simply at home: your uncle’s paella, your mom’s kare-kare, your tita’s fruit salad.
And a bonus of having a family heritage cookbook is that you never know whom it might benefit.
My aunt, Ching Vargas—may she rest in peace—made a delightful cheese pimiento spread. Today, her grandkids who are just in high school are learning entrepreneurial skills by selling this spread under a brand called Happytizers (call 0977-8494808 or 0917-7950814).
My grand-aunt, Carmen Reyes Perez—may she rest in peace—taught me how to make the traditional Bulacan hot chocolate. Together with my mom, Carmelita, I launched Nana Meng’s Kitchen 15 years ago, selling Bulacan delicacies (order at 0908-5974048).
Mango cake
Renowned chef Jessie Sincioco also has an aunt, Estelita Sincioco Dy, her father’s sister, whose talent in the kitchen immensely influenced her. Auntie Lita taught her the mango cake recipe that won the Maya Kitchen contest that jumpstarted her cooking career.
Sincioco’s aunt also taught her the pork barbecue recipe that can be found in the Kulinarya book of Filipino heritage recipes. These dishes that you think can only be produced in a restaurant were, in fact, first cooked at home. (The dishes are available at Chef Jessie’s Place; order at 02-88906543 or 02- 82540229 or 0917-8330797).
The process of publishing your own cookbook might seem daunting but it’s not as hard as it seems. The biggest challenge is in writing the recipes.
I remember having to write the recipe for our Bulacan dinuguan, a specialty also of Nana Meng, executed mostly by Ka Tage, one of the lola cooks in our ancestral home, for the book Memories of Philippine Kitchens of Amy Besa.
When we asked Ka Tage for the recipe, as Nana Meng had already passed away by that time, her vocabulary consisted of “kaunti (few or sprinkling” or “marami (plenty)” or “mas marami (more)”. There was no concept of exact measurements. All she had was the Filipino concept of “tantsa (to estimate)” and “timpla (mix to the desired taste), yet she was able to deliver the exact same flavor every time.
However, the next generations may no longer have their cooking as basis for their own. Hence, the importance of creating a recipe with the exact measurements.
Family stories
Once you have the recipes, it would be nice to add family stories. When did you enjoy this? Was it a fiesta fare? Was it a birthday tradition? Who in the family were best at making this?
I remember the ube halaya of our yaya, Aling Belen, which to my mind remains the best I have tried. She passed away earlier this year. Now that is another delicacy that will remain a memory.
I have also seen a family cookbook that included prayers from their grandmother. Photos, of course, will liven up the book. A family tree would be a beautiful touch, if you can manage it.
I also found an online site that can help you make your own cookbook. Visit heritagecookbook.com. It is US-based but at the very least, the site can give you ideas on how to make your cookbook.
If you start now, you can even give this away as a present come Christmas.
In the meantime, as you greet your mother and the mothers in your extended family a Happy Mother’s Day, ask them for their recipes. Let’s immortalize our mothers (and fathers) through food.
Happy Mother’s Day to my mom, Carmelita Vargas Salcedo, and to our Inquirer moms, Tina Arceo-Dumlao and of course we always remember Letty Jimenez-Magsanoc. And to all the moms out there, whether living with us or living in our hearts, thank you for all that you do.
XO Heritage Bistro. For the SaluSalo Kit, order via 0995-8690846 or 0910-6789530 or (02) 88053850.
More from the author at margauxsalcedo.com. Follow @margauxsalcedo on Instagram.
