The return of the chef behind Lolo Dad’s

Chef Ariel Manuel’s classic rack of lamb

Ariel Manuel is back.

This time in Makati’s new food district, Poblacion.

The chef calls his restaurant a bistro, to make it less intimidating. But once you step inside, it is fine dining.

All the touches of the old Lolo Dad’s are there for a new generation of food lovers to appreciate.

There was a time when there was only one fine dining restaurant that was top of mind when one needed to recommend the “best” restaurant in Manila.

It was a small 50 to 60 seater in an unassuming space in an even more unassuming location, Quirino Avenue. But once settled inside, it was as if you were nowhere less than a five star hotel. It was classic French cuisine at its finest.

Gourmet Senator JV Ejercito remembers the duck confit. Ambassador to the United Nations Teddyboy Locsin remembers the truffled mashed potatoes, among a litany of favorites.

Ariel Manuel was hailed the best chef in the Philippines. At that time, there were three names that stood out in the culinary industry for French fare: Tonyboy Escalante, but you would have to go all the way to Tagaytay to taste his cooking; Billy King, who had The French Corner but all the way in Alabang and Le Chef but all the way at The Manor in Baguio; and Ariel Manuel. (This was before Cyrille Soenen joined Impressions and opened Cicou).

For a while, too, fans rejoiced when a version of Lolo Dad’s opened in the 6750 building in Makati.

But for some reason, this did not have the magic of the original, and so was a short-lived venture.

Then chef Ariel disappeared. Bummer.

The metro turned to the next generation of chefs, hailed to the heavens by Instagram “influencers” and classics took a backseat to the cooking of a modernist and a torch freestyler.

So when word got around that chef Ariel was opening a bistro in Poblacion (carbon-dating myself but I like to call it the new Nakpil), those of us who remember Lolo Dad’s rejoiced.

Classics

There are old favorites on the menu and you immediately remember why chef Ariel was considered the Philippines’ best chef a decade ago.

The shrimp bisque is thick and packed with flavor, trumping other bisques in the metro that lean toward being watery. The double espresso soup, though secondary to the bisque, is likewise outstanding.

There is the old favorite of duck confit, but this now slides behind the lamb, which is the must-order. The rack of lamb is cooked perfectly, on the medium rare side, but tender and somehow not at all gamey. This is paired with excellent blue cheese risotto that only the classically trained can perfect. (Another amazing risotto, by the way, is Billy King’s but you would have to go all the way to Le Chef at The Manor in Baguio.)

For more variations, order the Lamb on Lamb on Lamb: Lamb rump accompanied by lamb breast and sweetbread.

If you dare, the sweetbread, in particular, brings you to Lyon. Paul Bocuse would be proud. In the Philippines, I think only Cyrille Soenen can top this—but he is French. Also note the excellent truffled mashed potatoes on the side.

Bistro

If you come as a big group—it is, after all, reunion season—order the pizza. The Only For the Rich pizza, as condescending as its title may sound, is indeed extravagant. It has foie gras, salmon and scallops. And it all comes together beautifully on a thin crust.

Also order the oysters. In true bistro fashion, chef Ariel jazzes this up with angel hair pasta underneath and foie gras on top.

Skip the soft shell crab in favor of the Elements of Duck: Duck liver mousse, pan seared duck liver, poached duck egg, slices of duck breast … all on homemade waffles that have sweetness just enough to balance the savoriness of the duck.

And for dessert, if you want Instagram-worthy, go for the Mango and Mascarpone Cheese Declension, a vertical mille feuille accompanied by dulce de leche and topped with caramelized sugar that may inspire another Tessa Prieto Valdes hat.

But I am biased in favor of the tiramisu souffle, which has a side of chocolate mousse I could order on its own.

Drinks

After dinner, head over to The Sippery downstairs or Taperia, where you can have wine and the famed pugon lechon of Alabang’s Un Cuenca (also by Chef Ariel).

Then raise your glass and toast to the comeback of chef Ariel Manuel.

Bistro Manuel. Second floor, 4347 B. Valdez, Makati. (02) 871 8566. Reservations recommended. Parking is limited so best to call and request for parking in front of the building. Cash basis only at the moment.

Take Makati Avenue toward JP Rizal, turn right on Valdez (across A Venue, immediately after Gulliver’s, at the corner of BPI). It’s the building with the Bistro M signage hanging from above. Wheelchair accessible.