Underground river a financial success

The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park (“underground river” to all) in fabled Palawan is now a new Wonder of Nature in the world, and visitors to the capital city have increased considerably, from 18,000 to half a million today.

Business is booming, as they say.

Inns, stores, restaurants, small resorts, souvenir shops and cottage industries have sprung around scenic Sabang Beach, entry point to the Underground River, and a 90-minute ride from the urban center through mostly smooth roads.

These days, the Underground River Booking Office (www.puerto-undegroundriver.com) in the City Coliseum of Puerto Princesa is always “fully booked,” as the sign says, filled with visitors seeking a permit (P175 for an adult, P250 if you’re “international,” meaning a foreigner) to tour the iconic National Park.

“We are actually encouraging tourists to see the other attractions of Puerto Princesa,” says one city tourism staffer. These include island-hopping in Honda Bay (P1,300); a

A NEW Wonder of Nature in the World

Maoyon River Cruise (P1,500); and Community-based Sustainable Tourism in this “city in a forest.”

Only a maximum of eight passengers are allowed in a paddle boat, and  should wear shorts and bathroom slippers. The eight are given  helmets, and the passenger at the head of the group is issued a floodlight so they can see and appreciate the formations in the pitch-black cave.

The boatman (Nestor, in our case) keeps  a running commentary, often with jokes, puns, and homespun humor. For instance, one formation is that of a “very sexy lady” and her name is “Sharon (lime) Stone.”

There is also a vegetable and meat section: “Mamalengke tayo (let’s go to the market).”

And, of course, there are the famous religious formations like the Holy Family, Mama Mary, the Cathedral, the Giant Candle and the Face of Christ.

Awesome.

Vandalism is one disconcerting note, however, like those by one Filipino major, the National Research Council, and by American soldiers with the year indicated: 1937. Why were these not removed? I remembered what spelunkers in Cagayan told me once—that Theodore Roosevelt (later US President) was the first vandal in the Callao Caves National Park in Peñablanca, north of Tuguegarao City.

The ride lasts only for an hour, as the rest of the long cave (which reaches up to the West Philippine Sea) is largely unexplored and dangerous. Geologists have discovered fossils of the sea cow (dugong) dating back to 50 million years.

The fee for the Underground River tour is P1,500. Only 900 persons per day are allowed in: P1,500 x 900 translates to a cool P1,350,000 a day, at least during the peak months from January to June.

Thus, the city-managed Underground River is not just a model of ecotourism but a financial success as well, resulting in huge revenues for Puerto Princesa.