FROM SEA TO SKY The concept of Central is unique in that Chef Virgilio Martinez features ingredients found at 50 feet below sea level up to those found at 13,800 feet of altitude — Central restaurant Instagram
The list of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” is out.
The headliner is that for the first time, the “World’s Best” is not in the United States or Europe but in Latin America!
Released just last June 20, Central by Chef Virgilio Martinez just catapulted Peru to become the ‘best’ place to visit for gastronomy.
Central in Lima, Peru is no newcomer and has been on the list many times. This “shrine of all things Peruvian” first appeared on the list in 2013 at No. 50.
But Chef Virgilio Martinez has continuously made his voice heard on Peruvian cuisine and, with his ‘unparalleled creativity,’ this year hit the top spot.
Located in Barranco, Lima, the concept of Central is unique in that Martinez features ingredients found at 50 feet below sea level up to those found at 13,800 feet of altitude. In the words of the 50 Best site, it “takes diners through myriad different Peruvian ecosystems, categorized by altitude—from below sea level in the Pacific Ocean to the high peaks of the Andes, “with each dish reflecting “the origin of its ingredients, from Dry Valley (shrimp, loche squash and avocado) to Amazonian Water (pacu fish, watermelon and coca leaf)”.
But aside from Central hitting the number one spot, here is equally good news: Martinez’ restaurant is joined by three other Peruvian restaurants in the Top 50.
More winners
Kjolle, which is run by Chef Pia Leon, former head chef at Central, also made it. Leon was actually voted “Latin America’s Best Female Chef” in 2018 and “World’s Best Female Chef” in 2021. Leaving Central to fulfill her culinary vision independently, she has made a name for herself as she pursues her advocacy of striving to preserve natural flavors without compromising or losing the character of what is being cooked. To achieve this, Leon actually spends months just researching on how best to preserve not just ingredients per se but each part of an ingredient to maximize flavors and add unexpected elements.
Another Peru-based restaurant in the Top 10—also located in Lima—is Maido, which has been around since 2009. But the concept is not entirely Peruvian. Here, Chef Mitsuharu ‘Micha’ Tsumura combines Japanese techniques and Peruvian ingredients to create Nikkei cuisine. According to the 50 Best description, “The imaginative menu changes according to the seasons and may amuse diners with snacks served on coral rock or edible stones made with Amazonian black potatoes, chorizo and cream.”
Still in Lima, ranking lower but still securely within Top 50, is Mayta. This restaurant made it to the “Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants” list in 2019 and first appeared on the “World’s 50 Best list” in 2022. Chef Jaime Pesaque offers a 12-course tasting menu that focuses on Peruvian ingredients such as goat with Andean herbs, scallops with fava beans, or Amazonian ceviche. He is known to serve paiche, an Amazonian fish that is said to taste similar to, or even better than, Chilean seabass.
It’s not on the list but if you ever find yourself in Lima, about two hours’ drive south in the desert region of Ica, is another Pesaque masterpiece called Yachay, which is described as a “space to disconnect from the everyday and reconnect with curiosity and exploration” as it is located in the Pesaque family’s own pisco vineyard.
So it seems that Lima is now the coolest place to visit for a gastronomic adventure. But since it’s a day and a half by plane, I guess for now we can settle for something that is more accessible: Nobu!
Remember that Nobu, located here in City of Dreams Manila, was the first to introduce to the world the blend of Peruvian and Japanese cuisine. And guess where Chef Nobu learned Peruvian culinary techniques. You guessed it: Lima, Peru. It was in Lima where this chef of the stars developed his signature style of melding Japanese techniques with Peruvian ingredients.
Congratulations to all the winners. May this list push all restaurateurs to keep striving for excellence and creative expression through their cooking!
For the full list of restaurants, visit worlds50best.com.