It’s always fascinating to learn about the owners and history of the estate or estates of wine labels. Especially fascinating are the colorful stories behind the labels of Baron Philippe de Rothschild.
Owner Baron Philippe de Rothschild (1902-1989) is on his own a treasure trove of stories. He is remembered today as a tireless champion of French wines. But his early life was equally exciting and worth documenting.
He was a successful race car driver in his 20s (finishing fourth, under the pseudonym Georges Philippe, at the inaugural Grand Prix Automobile de Monaco, behind winner William Grover-Williams), and a film producer at 30 (producing the 1932 film Lac-aux-Dames, the first French “talkie” to gain international recognition with a script by the famous French novelist Colette), before concentrating on the family estate to develop and bring Château Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac to premier cru status.
It must have been the unique combination of the Baron’s competitive instinct and respect for the arts that pushed him to fight to get the estate’s wine accepted as a first growth wine, alongside Haut-Brion, Lafite, Margaux and Latour, which were all judged to be first growth wines in the 1855 Classification of Wines.
Baron Philippe fought for this status for his wines from the day he took over the estate in 1922, at the young age of 20. His dream was realized when Mouton Rothschild was finally declared to be in the first growth league in 1973.
Saint Emilion Mouton Cadet
Another interesting story is that of the Mouton Cadet, which proves true the saying that one man’s trash may be another man’s treasure, although in this case, the trash and the treasure belong to one man.
The label was created because the Baron felt that the 1930 vintage of the second label, Carruades de Mouton, was not worthy of the Mouton-Rothschild name. Instead of throwing it out, he created the Cadet line, “cadet” referring to de Rothschild’s place as cadet or youngest son of the family. He sold this at more accessible prices and he who was last proved to be first, with the Mouton Cadet becoming one of the most in-demand wines of de Rothschild.
The demand was so large that the Baron had to source grapes not only from Pauillac but also from nearby appellations Saint Estephe and Haut Medoc. It gained Bordeaux AOC classification in 1947 and half a century later, has proven its appeal beyond generations. In 2002, it was declared one of the best selling wines in the world, with 15 million bottles sold worldwide.
At a wine tasting at Sofitel, wine connoisseur Tita Trillo of Titania Wines introduced a Saint Emilion Reserve Mouton Cadet, which will now be available in the Philippines.
Saint Emilion lovers will love the elegance of this wine, which can be paired with roasts and tartares. It is youthful yet with an elegant nose. The cherry highlights of the wine slowly crescendo to a well-structured finish. By no means stiff in spite of its elegance, it’s a happy wine that red wine lovers can drink all day!
Chateau d’Armailhac
The tradition of fine wines has been continued by the Baron’s daughter, the Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, who inherited three estates in Bordeaux when the Baron passed away in 1988: Château Mouton Rothschild (bought by her great-great grandfather Nathaniel de Rothschild in 1853), Château d’Armailhac and Château Clerc Milon.
The piece de resistance at Trillo’s wine dinner was from one of these estates of the Baroness: a 2011 Grand Cru Pauillac under the Chateau d’Armailhac label. While a fifth growth wine, this Armailhac has been described as consistent with the character of Pauillac, with a good concentration of flavors and supple textures. With hints of cocoa and blackberry, this is the wine to pair with rich, juicy steaks and hearty stews.
Wine art
One final adorable detail about Baron Philippe de Rothschild wines is the commitment to art. The labels are designed by famous artists, with works from such legendary names as Jean Cocteau to Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol.
When the Baron finally achieved the first growth status for Mouton Rothschild in 1973, he celebrated by using a Picasso painting, “Bacchanale,’’ as his label that year. Note the art on the label when you buy a bottle!
Today, the family continues the Baron’s motto, which he declared after achieving the status of premier cru: “I am first, I was second, Mouton never changes.’’
Clearly, whether a first growth or a fifth growth wine, whether extravagant or accessible, the de Rothschilds make sure that in every bottle they produce, this motto will hold true.
Baron Philippe de Rothschild wines including Mouton Cadet and Chateau d’Armailhac are carried by Titania Wines. Titania Wine Cellar is on Yakal St., Makati. For branches, visit Facebook page Titania Wine Cellars Inc. Call 894 1371 for inquiries and orders.
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