This weekend, Singapore marks its golden anniversary, its 50th year as a nation. Can you believe how young this country is? Yet so stupendously successful. It is truly a prime example of how discipline reaps rewards.
Today, Singapore ranks first in the world in investment potential; second in foreign trade and investment; and third in terms of least corruption in the economy, according to the Global Competitiveness Report.
Equally amazing is how the marketing geniuses behind Your Singapore turned what was once perceived as a boring city into one of Asia’s top food destinations.
Twenty years ago, when you spoke of Singapore, one would speak only of hawkers, for sumptuous Hainanese chicken.
Today, things have changed.
From ultra fine dining establishments like Jaan, Singapore’s best French restaurant, at the Swissotel; to the roster of restaurants at Marina Bay Sands led by Chef Justin Quek’s Sky on 57 and renowned Chef Tetsuya Wakuda’s Waku Gin; to the new hip restos in Chinatown like Burnt Ends and Lola; and, of course, to classic hawker stalls like Tian Tian for Hainanese chicken … the choices are endless! Singapore has truly established itself as a food mecca of Asia.
Melting pot
One way Singapore has promoted itself as a food destination is by recognizing its potential as a melting pot of cuisines, especially of Asian flavors. At the launch of the book Cooking for the President by former President Wee Kim Wee’s daughter Eng Hwa at Violet Oon’s cafe, the influence of Malaysian cooking was emphasized in the discussion on Peranakan cuisine. Meanwhile, its Chinatown—possibly the cleanest and hippest in the world—pays homage to the roots of the Chinese Singaporeans who make up 75 percent of the population.
So what Ambassador Tommy Koh of Singapore’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs said in a letter to his grandchildren as Singapore turns 50 (published in The Straits Times last Aug. 3) rings true: “In our country, people of different races, colors and religions live in peace and harmony. We celebrate our diversity as a blessing and not as a defect. …[W]e should feel a bond with people around our region…”
Coriander Leaf
This philosophy is practiced at Coriander Leaf, a well-loved, 14-year-old Singaporean establishment. I make special mention of this restaurant because we were brought here by the Singapore Tourism Board 10 years ago. Back then, its founder, Samia Ahad, expounded on the roots of Singaporean cuisine—as she gave cooking classes to visitors—by making mention of its Malaysian and Chinese influences. Today, in recognition of what Koh calls a “celebration of diversity”, Chef Samia has expanded her menu to cover recipes from Nepal, Indonesia, even the Philippines!
I had the privilege of reuniting with Chef Samia two weeks ago on a quick visit to Singapore for the Singapore Food Festival and I was surprised to find the following items on the menu: sinigang and halo-halo.
Chefs Without Borders
In the spirit of non-discrimination and in an effort to erase biases, though, the menu purposely did not categorize items by region or country. Instead, the menu is divided according to flavor profiles: Fresh, Familiar, Spicy, Umami and Sweet.
The sinigang is simply written out as “Steamed Venus Clams, Tamarind, Coconut Water and Calamansi”.
To the non-Filipino, it is a delightful clam soup with a touch of sour and a pinch of sweet. To the Pinoy, it is a classy version of sinigang.
The halo-halo is another example. Chef Iskander Latiff, Chef de Cuisine of Coriander Leaf, must be applauded for his ingenious version of this popular Filipino dessert. (Props to his Filipina wife, who exposed him to this.) On the menu, the dessert is simply written out as White Rabbit condensed milk ice cream, mango granita, leche flan, sweet potato, jack fruit, frosted flakes, shaved ice. But it is undoubtedly halo-halo. The giveaway is obviously the shaved ice, plus the leche flan and jack fruit (langka). The frosted flakes takes the place of pinipig. But the brilliant touch here is the White Rabbit ice cream (remember the White Rabbit candy with the edible paper?). I especially love the unique texture of the ice cream and will choose this over ube ice cream and evaporated milk any day.
Best of Asia
True to the spirit of bringing Asian neighbors and flavors together, Coriander Leaf goes beyond Southeast Asia with its recipes. Impressive and addictive was a plate of dumplings filled with chicken instead of seafood (imagine hakaw but with chicken). I later learned that this is a common dish of Nepal called Nepalese minced chicken momo dumplings. Then instead of toyo, the dumplings are dipped in a sauce made from roasted tomatoes, cumin seeds, fresh turmeric and a special Nepalese spice “Timur,” which is similar to Szechuan peppercorns although more fragrant.
Meanwhile, my favorite dish of the night was something that was in the original Coriander Leaf and has in fact been part of the menu for 14 years: lamb from the tandoori oven (also from the original Coriander Leaf).
“We have uplifted the quality of the lamb by using tender baby lamb chops from Australia. As we do not use any form of artificial food coloring in our dishes, the red color of the lamb is not as intense, but the dish is no less delicious,” explained Chef Iskander.
Your Singapore
Then the menu goes back to what is truly Singapore with soft shell crabs. But the flavors are made current by making the crabs come with salted duck egg yolk sauce and curry leaves. This may sound like an oxymoron but it is exquisite comfort food.
What is admirable about Singapore—and Coriander Leaf—is how it has been able to recreate itself without losing its identity; how it moves forward without forgetting to look back; how it honors heritage while being hip and happening.
It’s just brilliant. And I look forward to continue traveling to this lovely country—and all the exciting restaurants—in the next 50 years.
Happy 50th birthday, Singapore!
Coriander Leaf. #02-01 Chijmes (2nd floor above El Mero Mero), 30 Victoria Street, Singapore. E-mail reservations@corianderleaf.com. Open Monday-Saturday for dinner 6 p.m. onwards; closed Sundays. Reservations recommended. Coriander Leaf offers cooking lessons for groups and welcomes corporate events, too. Call 68370142. Restaurant is on the second floor, accessible by stairs.
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