AS I WRITE THIS, TROPICAL Storm 23 or ?Santi? as we will know him, is barreling through the Pacific ocean and heading for the Philippines. While many are tired of hearing and reading about typhoons and floodwater, there are still those trying to make sense of what happened to their homes and workplaces and are pondering over the available options as to the best way to make their spaces flood-resistant. As a flood casualty myself, I share my two-cents worth on what to use for flood-resistant materials and finishes.

If you had wooden doors and windows that need replacement, please do not encourage the cutting of more trees by replacing them with the same, but rather, look into PVC and aluminum options. These materials do not move nor swell with moisture. There are now surface finishes that simulate wood grains quite realistically, and sections that are thicker and mimic the sizes of real wood frames. I?m not a big fan of artificial finishes and I still believe that materials must be true in expressing themselves, but I?d rather have fake wood than bald mountains.

PVC panels

And speaking of fake, there are now ?fake? plywood or fiberboard panels in the form of PVC panels. These are lightweight yet rigid boards of expanded closed-cell polyvinyl chloride (PVC) extruded into a sheet that is just as workable as plywood and fiberboard. While the latter wood-based materials absorb water and swell, PVC boards are absolutely waterproof. The down side is that they cost almost double the cost of wood-based panels, but long-term thinking dictates they are the better option for cabinetry. When fabricated, they can be cladded or covered with high-pressure laminates and matching edgings, just the way you would any cabinetry construction.

High-pressure laminates are a no-brainer when it comes to surface finishes. Aside from being waterproof, they are scratch-resistant and can withstand high temperatures. Best of all, they have simulated wood finishes in the authentic grain patterns of the particular wood species. Moreover, they come in a variety of color finishes and in textures that simulate the slight ridges of real wood. To make lamination watertight, use epoxy to bind the high-pressure laminate into its substrate.

When grouting your tiled floors and walls, use an epoxy-based grout. Regular grouts will crack under water pressure and will come off as you go about scrubbing and cleaning. If your tiles are porcelain or ceramic and not homogenous, they run the risk of staining along the edges since the sides of these materials tend to absorb moisture and all the dirt that comes along with it. An epoxy-based grout will seal off the gaps and make the tile joints watertight.

Obvious choice

For flooring, tile is the obvious choice for water resistance. But if you prefer the warmth of timber but have it in your conscience to not use solid wood, an engineered wood floor would be an option. Better yet, pursue a solid engineered bamboo floor. This type of flooring is made up of layers of bamboo strips laid alternately along and perpendicular to the plank, pressure treated and bonded by a resin.

After being soaked in water, these bamboo planks do not expand significantly nor buckle unlike solid wood. And because they are installed as a ?floating floor? system that is not fixed down to the slab but held down to the floor by the surrounding baseboards or termination strips, they can be dismantled and made to dry and reinstalled. Hardwood floors will buckle and will have to be sanded down and refinished: a messy and dusty solution.

Like bracing for any calamity, preparedness is essential. Even in your own spaces, its better to be safe and ready than to be sorry.