PH food scene opens up to cuisine from Peru
CHEF Juan Barcos works on his culinary creations
Peruvian cuisine is all the rage now in the international culinary scene.
The World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards now even has Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards, a spinoff from the much celebrated guide that made stars like El Bulli’s Ferran Adria and Noma’s Rene Redzepi shine even brighter. Now chefs like Gaston Acurio are taking the world by storm.
Thankfully, the Philippines is not behind on the global dining scene.
By coincidence or by design, a couple of Peruvian restaurants have already opened in the metro.
One place frequented by the adventurous is Nikkei on Rada Street in Legaspi Village, Makati City.
In fact, it is not so much a restaurant as it is an izakaya serving sushi with Peruvian flavors.
The space is narrow, the seating limited. But with the marriage of these two great cuisines on your plate, you inevitably get something loud and hip.
Don’t expect Friday’s-size servings here. The kitchen understands that quantity does not necessarily translate to quality. Instead, orders are given in starter sizes.
Best appreciated with a glass of Nikkei’s sake, which is light and easy to appreciate, or one of its signature cocktails.
Being Peruvian, ceviche abounds. It has several kinds: the classic ceviche, smoked chili, yellow pepper, green ceviche, salmon thai and tuna.
Most impressive is the yellow pepper ceviche, which dances in your mouth.
It also has sushi rolls that would be great to share with colleagues.
Try the Panko Sushi Roll: salmon, avocado, kampyo or shavings from gourd and truffled cream cheese rolled with Japanese-style bread crumbs. I loved the touch of creaminess and the fact that it did not feel oily in spite of the crusty cover.
For those on a diet but don’t want to compromise on flavor, try the Causa Appetizers. These are as petite as geishas but also beautiful. Most recommendable are the salmon, which comes with guacamole and salmon tartar; and the tako causa, which has octopus confit and guac as well.
Also worth a mention is the salmon belly, cooked tempura-style. It is fatty but the batter is not oily at all. It is just a beautiful dish. We had to get another order—it was just so good.
Chef Juan Barcos, while Argentinian and not Peruvian, deserves some applause, not only for Nikkei but also for those hearty steaks and other heart attack-inducing creations at La Cabrera at 6750 beside Shang Makati.
To have those great Latin American flavors within reach through his creations at these restaurants is priceless (though pricey!)
Nikkei. Rada Street, Legazpi Village, Makati
No reservations. +63927-2730114, 8800231
Open for lunch and dinner daily (From 3-6 p.m. only dessert and drinks)
What to order: Yellow Pepper Ceviche, Panko sushi roll, Ceviche roll, Salmon Belly
Wheelchair accessible. Major credit cards accepted.
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